DUBROVNIK TRAVELADY

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2011-02-15T15:29:00.001+01:00

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www.essenceofdubrovnik.com

The water fountain in Orebic

2010-08-12T19:38:00.001+02:00

The year is1928, my father has been living and working in the United States for the past 5 years. He has saved enough money to return to his homeland for a bride. “Tata” (father) makes contact with his cousin, Marija and she has found a lady who is the prospective blushing bride. The lady lived in a small village called Orebic, it is located on the Peljesac peninsula about 2 hours north of Dubrovnik.

My Dad and cousin Marija travel from Dubrovnik to Orebic by ferry boat, arriving at the island of Korcula just across the channel. They take the small rickety boat over to the village and spend the night with friends. Tomorrow is the big day; my dad will meet the lady who has agreed to be his mail order bride.

During all my younger years I can’t remember my father ever looking anything but exceptional. He was very handsome man and took great pride in presenting himself in a proper, suit, tie, vest and a wonderful old Fedora hat. My sister used to say that he was “Dapper.” He must have made the ladies of the village turn and admire this young man who had returned from America for a bride. Off cousin Marija and father walk down to the part of the village known as Tristenic, this is at the far eastern end just above the most glorious beach to meet with the lady and her family. This meeting required that her parents, sisters and brothers, all cousins, aunts and uncles would be waiting to meet my father. I never did hear very much about the meeting so I can’t tell you how it went inside. However, I do know that once outside, the first words Dad said to Marija were that he did not like this woman at all and where there any other eligible ladies in this village? This is where it begins to get exciting….

As they were just starting to stroll back to town, Marija began to ponder and mentioned to Dad that there were 2 sisters living just a couple of houses down from their exact location. It was just as they had sat on the small perch across from the water fountain, that one of the sisters appeared barefoot with her ceramic water pitcher. It was Tera, the middle daughter of Marija and Stepan Mrgudic, she was a tall auburn haired Dalmatian woman of 22 years. Marija did the proper introductions and Tera and my dad talked for about ½ hour. It was my Dad who uttered those famous words, “Joces li ti poc u Ameriku sa mnom?” Translated it means, “Do you want to go to America with me?” Now Tera thought very seriously about this question and answered with no hesitation with “Da.” That was how my dad met my mother, at the water fountain in Orebic.

Perhaps I should also explain why my mother had answered so quickly with an affirmative. It seems that her father, a sea captain who was now sailing somewhere in Asia, had promised her to an elderly man of the village. Well to say of the village would be a total understatement. This man, who lived with his very cranky old mother, had a home half way up Sveti Ilija the mountain range just above mother’s village. A marriage to this elderly man and his mother would mean that my mother would be expected to walk down to the center of town, every morning rain or shine, for bread and that days lunch – fish – meat or just vegetables at 6am. She would then return up the mountain to begin cooking and serving lunch. It would then be time for her to start to clean the very old house, which had no indoor plumbing let alone a bathroom. And who else would have to shovel out the outhouse? She knew that she would be the workhorse for the rest of her life and this was enough for her to say yes to my dad when he asked that very famous question. My grandmother encouraged my mother, as did her sister to marry my dad as quickly as possible and begin her journey to the land known as America. My grandfather was due to return shortly, my dad’s visa was almost over and it was now or never.

My mother and father went to the Catholic church in town, where they asked their family priest to post their all 3 of their bans on one Sunday and marry them the following Monday, which he did. It was early October when they began their journey up the Dalmatian coast to Rijeka and onward to Cherbourg where they boarded the ship named “Barengaria” and the 7 night journey across the Atlantic began. Mother spends 4 nights on Ellis Island before being allowed to enter the New York City. She was quite ill prepared for her first sights of New York and can remember vividly when my Dad took her to see the movie “The Ten Commandments” which of course was the first one in black and white. Mother had never seen a move, let alone been inside of a movie theater.

There were married for 58 years, my Dad passed away in 1986 and had told me for many, many years that his ashes should be scattered in mother’s village of Orebic, in the “Nosa Mora” which means literally our water, aka Adriatic Sea. I will this year scatter mother’s ashes at the monastery, Gospa Angela, just above her village in a field of lavenders with a view of the village and the sea…And the story comes full circle, where it all began.

Next is my first visit to Orebic…

FASHIONABLE LADIES OF DUBROVNIK

2009-04-26T16:43:00.011+02:00

Now that spring has begun I have the unique opportunity to appreciate the fashions of Dubrovnik. It is such a pleasure to walk down the 176 steps to Stari Grad (old town) and stroll leisurely down the Stradun which is our main promenade. The local residents great me with “Dobro Jutro” (good morning) whether they know me or not. It’s such a simple and warm gesture and enhances my recognition of the ladies and their individual style of fashion

Last month, as I was riding our local bus back to my garden apartment, an elderly lady approached me. Before she sat down in the empty place next to me, she inquired very politely “Slobodna?” which means “free?” I replied in my very best Croatian “Da” (yes). I had seen this woman in town on several occasions and realized she must be close to 80. I have never seen her, summer or winter, without her hat, skirt, and jacket and always, always a matching scarf around her neck. Today she was dressed in various shades of light blue with a lovely multi colored silk scarf tied ever so Parisian style. She immediately struck up a conversation and when I answered in my very best Croatian, she immediately started to speak to me in perfect English. I asked how she knew I was American; she replied sweetly “It was your American accent.” She added, “If you are comfortable conversing in Croatian please let me know.” We were only together for a short time but she left me with a lasting impression. Later that evening, as I was watching the local news there was my lady being interviewed on television. I had guessed correctly, she was 83 and one of the first tour guides in Dubrovnik and was being honored with an award. Her name Danica Casagrande and she is fluent in English, French, Italian and her native Croatian.

Last week I was shopping in our local Macys equivalent, called “Robna Kuca.” Literally translated it means “Clothing House.” However in Robna Kuca you can buy everything from clothing to furniture to new kitchens and bathrooms. As I began walking to the check out counter, there was Danica buying a vase for a bouquet of flowers, which she was taking to a friend. This afternoon she was dressed in a winter hat, a light grey skirt, matching shoes and dark blazer. And the Parisian style scarf around her neck was another multi colored which matched her entire attire.

It was Sveti Vlaho Day while I was in Stari Grad taking photos that I was just hanging around on the Stradun. Waiting to catch that perfect family dressed in their Sunday best when I could see the storm was coming quickly and decided it was time to head home. I turned down the first side street and low and behold there she was walking towards me, dressed in her finest. My new friend, Danica and she looked divine. I asked her if I might take her photo, she posed for many and I was so thrilled to see her on this special day. I spent another hour just walking with her and asking as many questions as possible. She gave me her business card and I promised to contact her when I made her photos into real actual photos for her. Danica doesn’t have a computer and I doubt if she’s going to get one any time soon.

Now I tell the story of Danica, because she is not the only lady in town who looks so lovely and fashionable. All the local women, whether it’s summer or winter, are very much into high fashion. The town ladies do not venture outdoors wearing any type of work out clothes, and apparently they don’t even own a pair of white tennis shoes. This is not to say they don’t own work out clothes, they do but just don’t wear them in public. The ladies here mostly wear cotton sun dresses, skirts and blouses during the hot summer season. However, during the cold winter months they seem to all have an abundance of jackets, skirts, tights, high heeled boots and an array of scarves tied in every conceivable manner. They look terrific and it’s nice to see them as they promenade down the Stradun, whether it’s to work or just to meet a friend for coffee.

Now I leave you with one question…why do European ladies always look so chic in public?

TRAVEL AND THE INTERNET

2009-03-11T14:04:00.008+01:00

Perhaps I was one of the lucky ones who started working in this ever so fascinating and ever changing travel industry so many years ago. In the hey day of free airlines tickets, weekend trips to Hawaii, free deluxe rooms at the finest 5 star hotel and luxury car rentals at $10 per day. Those were the late sixties and early seventies and all the major airline representatives were giving away comp (complimentary) tickets left and right. For those of you who believe this is still happening in these days of uncertain economic times, get over it. Those comp days of airline tickets and hotel rooms are long gone. Of course the Rick Steves and daughter Fodors are still getting some freebies as they are moving groups in and out by the bus load. Keep that in mind when buying one of their travel books, the recommend places which have given them a deal or freebie.
Has the internet killed off the travel industry? That is a question which can be answered with a very simple yes and no. Gone are the homemakers who were only around to take their families to Maui cheaply. Gone also are those women who arrive at a lovely sit down dinner or buffet meal/seminar and eat as those they hadn’t for a week. What has survived is the travel professional, the person who has found a niche and become an expert in a chosen area. Gone is the agency who does it all, airline tickets, cruises, train trips and the occasional help with some young persons school project, which mother has requested.
The term travel agent is not used by anyone who is a “Destination Specialist”. The new generation of travel consultants are just that, they are consultants and advisors. These are travel professionals who have been visiting or living in a certain destination and know more about this area than most local residents. As many of you know, I now live in Dubrovnik also known as “The Pearl of the Adriatic.” and I do know more about this town than many of my relatives who were born and raised here. The reason for this is that I have a passion and unrequited love for this area and I love to share my knowledge to those who are truly interested in seeing the Dalmatian Coast.
In this past year I have been trolling around on a couple of internet sites just to see what travelers are seeking these days. One of the more interesting sites is called “Cruise Critic.” and is dedicated to those who love to cruise. What I have noticed is how often the same questions are asked and answered, several times about a destination. The answers to these same questions are never the same, as it is always someone who has been in a town for a mere 4 hours who feels they are qualified to give advise. Dubrovnik has been labeled by these 4 hour cruisers as a town “you can do on your own.” Now I beg to differ on this as it is true one can walk the city walls and around Stari Grad (old town) and see the buildings, churches and museums. However these folks do not capture the essence of my home, they don’t hear the stories and hear some of the conflicting antidotes of a certain monument. For example Orlando’s column, sitting just in front of Sveti Vlaho church in Luza Square. He is an Italian and there are several tales of who and why is has a statue in our town. And the tourists pass him by without even a notice or thought. Also they’ve taken the photo of “Serpico” our resident mascot of the Rectors Palace, his photo is all over the internet. But they don’t have a clue as to what the Rectors Palace is about, the home of our local government during the time Dubrovnik was known as the Republic of Ragusa. We riveled the sea with Venice and it was during these early years that Sveti Vlaho saved the Ragusa from the Venetian invaders and became the patron saint of Republic. A celebration of this saints day with the same pageantry of years gone by. And even during the 1991 war, as Dubrovnik was being shelled from the mountain above, the pageantry did not cease.
Now I think about a lady in Northern California living in one of those gated communities, she painted her house a very bright lemon yellow. I also smile as I remember the mature woman on a cruise who was wearing a pink chiffon prom dress young enough for her granddaughter. Would I see the same sights with their recommendations? So why does a 4 hour visit give anyone the audacity to believe they’ve seen Dubrovnik?
Another favorite site to troll around is called “Trip Advisor.” These are usually the landlubbers, as the cruisers like to label them. These guests are usually into staying in a town for 4 or 5 nights and this does give them more time to get a better feel for area. However I am again fascinated by the fact that travelers again listen to the advise of other travelers, rather than find a professional destination specialists. Something which I’ve noticed is how often a certain restaurant is mentioned in Dubrovnik; Mea Culpa is known for it’s pizza. Ok folks, this is not Italy and pizza is not one of our local meals. Dubrovnik is known for it’s fresh seafood, lamb cooked under the “Peka”, Rozata and Dingac wine. And so when one of the ladies contacted me to utlize my services she also gave me a list of restaurants, all of which she choose based on what she had read on trip advisor. All six of these place were Italian flair, there wasn’t one which would be serving our local delicacies. So it’s not the quality of the food, it’s how often one is mentioned that others seem to latch onto these places.
Some of the best restaurants in Dubrovnik are located on small side streets, only big enough to seat a few tables. The owners are locals who know the fisherman and arrive at the old port at 6am to buy the very freshest fish caught that morning. They are also the same people who arrive at the farmers market in Gundlich square at 7am for the freshly sown vegetables and fruits. These same small konaba’s are the same ones which the tourists pass by, as they do not have a sea view. I have a theory about the sea views, if a restaurant has a very nice sea view their food is usually below average with an above price. However that has only been my experience in the past year. The exception to this rule is the lovely Orhan Restaurant located in the Pile Bay, just at the waters edge. They require a 24 hour advance notice for lamb cooked under the peka and it is a lovely meal with never a morsel left on the serviing platter.
One last thought about the person who spends 80 hours a week surfing the internet looking for the cheapest price possible for anything and everything. What a waste of time and how could anyone spend all that time just looking for cheap. The majority of the world does not necessarily look for the cheapest, they are looking for a “good value for their money.” A huge difference, in my humble opinion. Do these folks have any kind of life if they are spending every waking hour on the internet surfing? when was the last time they read a book? Or even watched the Discovery chanel on life in the Maldives? Do they even have a life or have them become the wave of the future, moving from their home computer to their blackberry which is in the pocket at all times. Onward to work and their computer which forbids personal surfing, which they do during their bored time and sending emails to family and friends whom they will see again in a few hours. And these are the ones who are only surfing for price, that’s all that matters price…
In my heart I must believe that those who have contacted me for my services to guide them in Dubrovnik have done so because they can see and know that this area has become part of my soul. And it is thru my eyes they will visit and find the true essence of my new home, Dubrovnik and it’s hidden gems.

2009-03-11T13:39:00.001+01:00

DAN SVETI VLAHA - SAINT BLAISE DAY FESTIVAL

2009-03-03T17:08:00.005+01:00

Croatia has always been a predominately Catholic country. Even during the Communist time, religion was not prohibited. It is therefore an integral part of life in Dubrovnik and the surrounding countryside and the calendar is defined by saint days. It is Saint Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik, who was said to have saved the town from a Venetian invasion back in 971AD. This event is celebrated annually as Dan Sveti Vlaha—Day of Saint Blaise.
We began celebrating on Monday, 02 February 2009, known as “Kandelora”. This specific day is 40 days from the birth of Christ and marks the opening ceremony of Dan Sveti Vlaha. The day before the actual patron saint day is reenacted in the same manner as it was back 1034 years ago in the year 975AD.

There are close to 80 small churches located within the city walls of the Stari Grad (old town). The ceremony began with the raising of the Sveti Vlaho Church flag on the Orlando column in Luza Square where the church is located. A small and most ornate church, it only can hold a few hundred guests at most. And yet this church has stain glass windows which rival any in Europe.
The procession of the town flags flowed down the Stradun to the front steps of this beloved church. Each flag carrier made the traditional 3 bows and then furled and moved the flag in a precise movement and each flag danced through the cold damp afternoon winds. Most of the flag bearers were elderly gentleman of the church; however there was a young boy of not more than 14 or 15 years who presented his flag with the grace and charm of the oldest and most experienced. I feel that as the younger generation gets involved, this tradition will continue to exist.

The Bishop of Dubrovnik gave thanks to Sveti Vlaho and various guests who have arrived in Dubrovnik for this special celebration. Honored guests included a bishop from California, another from Zagreb and another from one of the South American countries. At the end of this prayer a woman, dressed in her village’s traditional costume, released white doves from a small basket. The townspeople crowded into the small square to witness this tradition. Later that evening the town’s elite enjoyed a feast fit for royalty held at Fort Revelin, one of the original ramparts built to protect the Ploce entrance into Stari Grad.
On Tuesday, 03 February 2009 I awoke early to the sounds of small canons being fired to mark the opening of Sveti Vlaho Day. I hurried to dress, grabbed my camera and began the walk down the 176 steps to the Pile gate entrance. Large family groups gathered to find space to attend the mass at our Cathedral. The ladies wore their finest winter coats and matching hats and handbags. The men generally wore their finest suits, neckties and some had white silk scarf around their necks. When I reached Luza Square, I realized I was late; there wasn’t an inch of space and I couldn’t reach the Cathedral. Outdoor loudspeakers broadcasted the mass with the many bishops participating in this established ritual. The Cathedral choir was positioned just outside the side doors and their voices blended and soared with joy and pride in the traditional church music. All the townspeople joined in, with even the smallest of children rejoicing in the songs of old.

When the mass ended, the bishops, priests and alter boys processed on Puca Street, which runs parallel to the Stradun. This road is where the peasants of old got their water for household use. These wells have long since been covered over, but the outlines are still visible. They walked to Onfrio Fountain, at the Pile entrance. Onfrio was the fountain from which the town aristocracy was allowed to fetch their water.
The procession slowly strolled down the Stradun, which was crowded. The locals wanted to touch the relics of the Saint as his head, a bit of bone from his throat, and his hands paraded in the reliquaries usually held in the Cathedral museum. The parade completed a full circle returning to the front entrance of Sveti Vlaho Church, where they once again gave thanks to our Dubrovnik patron saint who saved the town from the Venetian invaders.
“Zivo Sveti Vlaho”

MY FIRST DUBROVNIK CHRISTMAS

2009-01-07T16:33:00.018+01:00

It was the day after Thanksgiving and I was driving up the hill to the Christmas tree farm in Placerville. For the last 10 years I have had the privilege of finding the perfect tree for our home in California. Each year the tree seemed to get better and better and last year was the ultimate as I had finally found the perfect tree.

One year later, living in Dubrovnik the Friday after Americans have celebrated with turkey, stuffing and cranberry sauce was very different. I was not in the car driving up Highway 50 to find the perfect tree. Instead, I started down the 176 steps to Stari Grad (Old Town) and felt ever so blue as I walked down the Stradun. As I reach Luza Square, my heart skipped a beat and I felt tears flowing. Standing in awe, I looked at the most beautiful sight on what had been a very sad day for me. The town had found the perfect tree and there it was waiting to be covered with Christmas decorations. How did the town know that I needed to have the joy of a Christmas tree that morning? I stood there for hours just staring at the tree and silently thanked the town for this wonderful gift.

The town began to get dressed for the holidays with garlands of freshly cut bay leaves intertwined with many bright yellow lemons at each small side street. The small Onfri fountain stands out with more bay leaves, lemons and lights. The Cathedral, Mali Brac and Sveti Vlaho churches are outlined with small white lights which define their incredible architecture and design. Many of the shops decorated the front windows with small displays and it was obvious the children started to feel the excitement of the holiday season. The small cafes where the locals stop for morning black coffee after market are filled with voices singing old Croatian traditional Christmas music. Most of the Croatian men seem to have such glorious voices and they harmonize with such ease. It is Christmas time in Dubrovnik.

As I did my grocery shopping I noticed the stores began to sell Bacalar, a Christmas Eve delicacy. For those of you, who have never seen or heard of this Christmas meal, let me explain. It is a very dried up Norwegian cod fish which is so hard it must be soaked in water for 3 days before you beat it with a wooden mallet and then begin to cook it for several hours. Potatoes are added to the fish mixture along with at least 20 cloves of garlic and it is cooked again for another hour. The aroma is very distinctive and quite strong. The aroma began to come from every home and restaurant in the entire town. Mother made this for many years when I was very young and I had never been able to get this Croatian favorite past my nose to my mouth as the smell was…indescribable. This was my first Dubrovnik Christmas and my first taste of Bacalar. Much to my surprise it was really good and I did indulge in the Badnjak (Christmas Eve) traditional meal. Truthfully, washing the meal down with several glasses of wine did make it taste even better.

My tree at home was, well let’s just call it the best Charlie Brown tree I’ve ever seen. However consider the fact I only had 10 small special ornaments and one small line of lights which I bought at our local department store. The lights were something new; they have 8 different settings and I choose the very slow dimming of the tiniest lights ever made in “China.” Traditionally the trees are put up on Christmas Eve, just prior to the families going to midnight mass at one of the very many Churches. Mass for the entire Sosa family was at Na Jezuvitima Church, rebuilt after the big earthquake of 1667, located at the highest part of Stari Grad which is another 78 steps above the green market. After Mass the Stradun was filled from end to end with all towns’ people and it was reminiscent of a crowded Sunday during the summer high season. Only this night it was only the local residents and the greetings of “Sretan Bozic” wafted throughout the crowd.

As I awoke on Christmas day I turned on the TV to the webcam located at the clock tower at the far end of the Stradun. It was the first time I had ever seen the entire promenade totally empty. There wasn’t a single person or even one of the local stray cats walking down the promenade. My first Croatian Christmas, my first taste of Bacalar and my first Charlie Brown tree; it was my first Christmas far from my beloved Vera, Paula, Bob, Christine, Walt, Dottie, Wally, Marty and all the furry critters in Cameron Park. I dedicate this Christmas message to all of them.

Sretan Bozic i Nova Godina

A VERY SPECIAL COUPLE WHO TOUCHED MY LIFE

2008-11-26T19:33:00.003+01:00

Shortly after my move to Dubrovnik in January but before my internet was connected at home, I stopped in an internet café to connect with the world. I trolled http://www.cruisecritic.com/ for possible guests who would be coming to Dubrovnik during the coming cruise season. It took me more than 30 days to get my internet connection up and running and I noticed an email with a subject line “Greetings from Benicia” that had arrived a few weeks before. This was my first contact with Bruce and his lovely wife Elizabeth who would be arriving in Dubrovnik on the World Residence Ship in August. http://www.aboardtheworld.com/

Allow me to share my experience with this unique cruise ship called “The World”. Several years ago, when I was working at Voyages in Sutter Creek, California, a very special young man walked into my office and requested information on a new ship called “Residency.” This concept was original: buy a resident apartment and cruise the world all year long. These are not standard or even deluxe ship cabins; they are residences some as large as 3,000 square feet. The prospectus states emphatically that a net worth of at least $5,000,000 is needed to apply. I kept the brochure for several years but finally tossed it when I retired in July 2003. But I never forgot the ship and wondered about it on occasion.

Fast forward to July 2008 and Bruce and Elizabeth. They had booked one of the guest studio apartments for a 10-night cruise from Montenegro to Venice. One special aspect of this tour was the plan to spend more time in the destinations than the typical cruise does. Bruce and Elizabeth would be in Dubrovnik for 3 nights and 2 full days, enough time to begin to find the essence of my new home. We emailed for some time and made arrangements to meet on a Tuesday afternoon at the Gradska Kavana, one of the local cafes located on Luza Plaza.

That morning I made my daily sojourn to the farmers market and noticed a couple, who looked so very American. The clothes gave them away. I dismissed it as just someone from another cruise wandering around in our early morning market. However later that morning as I made my way to the Gradska Kavana (which means Grand Café) I saw the same couple approaching me and knew it was Bruce and Elizabeth instantly. Do you know sometimes when you finally meet some people you have the feeling you’ve known them for years? That’s how I felt with this lovely couple. We spent some time doing nothing but chatting about my new life in Dubrovnik and their cruise experience in Montenegro. Elizabeth has heritage from that area and she had some memorable experience while visiting the Bay of Kotor the day prior.

We wandered down the Stradun and stopped for lunch at Nava Restaurant, a small outdoor location just opposite the bell tower of Mali Brac Church. Of course I had the grilled Adriatic baby squid, which is my favorite meal. When the squid is grilled the outer layer turns a warm pink color and it was delicious as usual. We spent the afternoon wandering around, stopping to look in shop windows and for a mineral water at the Fontana, one of our local pit stops.

This was an amazing and memorable afternoon with two people who I had only met and yet I feel as though they have been a part of my life for many years. Elizabeth had brought me oregano, parsley and basil seeds which were inside of a lovely small wood box she hand painted for me. I leave you with the words inside the box ~ “Change is constant. Embrace it!”

Dubrovnik

2008-10-17T15:19:00.002+02:00

One of my favorite strolls is to take the Magistral highway above the town.
The view of Stari Grad (old town) is one of my favorites. The homogeniety of the red roof tiles and the buff colored walls provides a sense of belonging and peace unknown in American cities. I'd love to hear your comments.

My television debut

2008-10-10T18:52:00.001+02:00

This afternoon as I was relaxing at the Fontana drinking my herb tea, the local tv news crew stopped to interview me. They wanted my viewpoint on how well the town was doing keeping clean for the tourists.

I am not known for my shyness, so of course I was very clear that it is next to impossible to stay clean when the cruise ships all arrive on Saturday and Sunday. The ships drop about 20,000 more people on the town, causing horrendous traffic. It would be much better for the town and more so for the tourists for the cruise ships to visit at staggered intervals during the week.

Additionally, as in any place where you have a lot of transients, there is some lack of concern about the impact a person, as a visitor, makes on a place. The fact that there is trash is sad, but not very surprising. What is more annoying is that the visitors do not use the shuttle service provided by the cruise ships, and instead tend to crowd on to our local buses.

Our bus system is wonderful and as a senior citizen, I often use it to get around town and to outlying areas. When the tourists are in town, using the public buses instead of the cruise shuttles, I notice many elderly ladies standing with their grocery bags at the bus stops, unable to board and go home because of no space.

On one hand I can admire the decision to try to experience some of the local lifestyle, but it would be better to use the shuttle service. If you are a tourist who wants to discover the essence of the town of Dubrovnik, I can show you places the herd following the umbrellas can’t find.

So, we have two issues caused by the cruise lines—their schedule of arrival and their route and time service for the shuttles. As individuals we have little influence on that, although the town fathers probably can have a voice requesting some changes.

What we can do, as individuals, is seek out special ways to discover hidden gems and to be sure to treat all places and their peoples with respect.

And finally, will someone do something about the way a tv camera adds pounds!!

Retracing the Amazing Race with Andrea and Kristy

2008-10-09T11:21:00.005+02:00

This past December, I was watching the reality show the Amazing Race on television, just prior to my departure for Croatia. When they showed a preview of the next leg of the contest my family was amused when I jumped up with excitement, recognizing sites in Dubrovnik.

During the intervening week the Croatian National Tourist Bureau started to air commercials for the upcoming segment of the Amazing Race in Dubrovnik. All these clues paid out as the family was glued to the show and confirmed that the participants in the Race had indeed, come to Dubrovnik

I was really excited when I was recently contacted by a young lady, Andrea. She had been searching for some special help for an upcoming visit in Dubrovnik and we connected on the Cruise Critic Forum online. Andrea and her friend Kristy were planning to come to Dubrovnik to visit the places where Kristy’s son, TK and his partner Rachel participated and won, the Great Race.

Offering individualized tours and insights into the local area is my specialty. I lead them on a wonderful day following the clues given for the contestants, which gave Kristy and Andrea a wonderful sense of what TK and his partner had achieved.

We started at the base of Fort Lovrijenac, where TK and Rachel took the zip line down to the Adriatic Sea. The zip line is no longer there, as the city of Dubrovnik only allowed it for filming during the race from our historical site of Lovrijenac.

On the show, several contestants went the wrong way on the Stradun, the main promenade which runs east-west through the middle of the old town. We went the right way, of course, and at the Ploce Gate, which is the eastern entrance, decided to forgo the taxi ride up to the top of Mt. Srd where the race ended.

It was a wonderful day and Andrea and Kristy had the unique opportunity to visit and photograph our historical town of Dubrovnik.

Comments from Andrea:
I would certainly take Carol's advice again regarding all matters concerning Dubrovnik, as my friend Kristy and I did during our recent mid-September visit. From her info about the Wall, both the practical and historical, sights within the Old City to see, her restaurant suggestions, coffee and internet cafes, good shops to browse, connection to wonderful local lodging accommodations and, to top it off, interesting side notes, it was very worth our time to be connected with Carol. She makes an excellent guide as well, in case anyone is seeking a really personal touch.
Again, hvala lijepo, Carol
Dovidenja,
Andrea

How It All Began

2008-09-08T15:56:00.005+02:00

Life is a circle. We’ve seen it time and time again, and here it happened to me. I am back in my parent’s homeland.

My first visit to Croatia was back in 1971 when it was still called Yugoslavia. Something earth-shattering was happening to me: I was turning 30, and I decided to celebrate by giving myself a trip to Europe. So I jumped on TWA , flew to Rome where I stayed for a week and on to Dubrovnik for 3 weeks. Most people would say: what? That is backwards!!! But I went to Rome as it had always called to me. Croatia was my parent’s former home and I would be meeting family. That required more time. But what started as a visit of discovery, changed.

That was the beginning of a love affair.

Back in 1971 hardly anyone had ever heard of Yugoslavia let alone came here for their holiday. Dubrovnik was a quiet small town where most of the residents knew each other. My second evening here some friends took me up to the top of Mt. Srd (pronounced “surge”) I stood on one of the old ramparts of a fortress built during the days when this area was part of the Austrian -Hungarian Empire. The sun was setting and as dusk began I watched the lights of Dubrovnik begin to shine. It was then I knew I had found my home. Dubrovnik became a part of my soul and I vowed to one day live here. It only took me 37 years to make that dream come true.

I left California in January 2008 and moved to my beloved homeland in Croatia. Dubrovnik is located on the most southern end of Croatia and our weather here is very similar to that of California. The Dalmatian coast is a most amazing place with more than 1185 islands. Most of them are uninhabited.

As I sit here at my computer, I am looking out the window at our fig tree which is now bearing very sweet and succulent green figs. We are in very high season in town and the tourists are coming daily in record amounts. The cruise ships have put Dubrovnik on their Mediterranean itineraries and the one day cruisers are mostly unable to see this wonderful city due to the time contrastants of their port time. I could make such a difference to their discovery in this magical place, but few will recognize the true beauty of what they see. I need to try to change that.